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There are a number
of different variations (or types of smocking), but the best
known is
ENGLISH or GEOMETRIC SMOCKING.
This type of smocking is very elastic and uses approximately
three times the width of fabric as is required in the finished
article. The smocking consists of angular and linear stitch
combinations which are worked in rows. In the earlier examples of
English smocking, the same stitch is usually worked from the
beginning to the end of each row, and a number of rows are used
to build up a rich textured pattern. More recently, a number of
different stitches are incorporated into a single row, and blocks
of pattern are gradually built up.
The smocking may be enhanced by embroidered flowers placed
within the open shapes formed by the rows of smocking
stitches.
English smocking was originally done by marking the fabric with
evenly spaced rows of dots. These dots where then 'picked up' by
running a thread through each row of dots to form the pleats. The
smocking stitches were then worked on these pleats.
Since the invention of the pleater machine, the whole procedure
is simplified: the fabric is fed though the machine which
automatically forms the pleats ready for smocking.
AMERICAN SMOCKING
While this type of smocking is worked in a different way, the
appearance of the smocking is similar. The fabric is marked with
evenly spaced rows of dots on the right side of the fabric. The
pleats are formed as the smocking stitches are worked.
Since the invention of the pleater machine, this method is now
rarely used.
LATTICE or NORTH AMERICAN or CANADIAN SMOCKING
Lattice smocking cannot really be compared to ordinary smocking
as the fabric is gathered in both directions, and is therefore
not as elastic as English smocking.
Evenly spaced rows of dots are marked on the back of the fabric,
and then the fabric is gathered between the various dots to form
pleats which give a plaited appearance on the front of the
fabric.
This type of smocking is often used to decorate velvet cushions,
as well as clothing. Traditionally lattice smocking has been
worked on velvet, but it now also done on lightweight upholstery
fabric, satins, track suiting and a variety of crease resistant
synthetic fabric. It can also be used with checked fabric.
COUNTERCHANGE SMOCKING
This type of smocking is worked on even check or striped fabric.
As with American smocking, no gathering threads are used as the
fabric is 'pleated' as the smocking stitches are worked. Instead
of marking the fabric with dots, lines are draw on the fabric as
guides for the position of the stitches; alternatively, the
checks or dots of the fabric itself are used as guides.
Counterchange smocking has little elasticity.
The lines of smocking cause solid bands or blocks to be formed
either in the dominant or the secondary colour of the striped
fabric, depending on how and where the stitches are worked.
PICTURE SMOCKING
Designs or pictures can be produced using smocking stitches.
Stacking is used to describe the working of parallel rows of
smocking stitches, usually cable stitch. These rows of stitches
are lined up so that they touch each other without overlapping in
order to create solid areas of colour to form shapes and
figures.
The pleats for picture smocking are drawn up more tightly, and
the completed smocking is not stretched in order to prevent the
distortion of the shapes. Picture smocking is therefore less
elastic than other forms of smocking.
The pleated fabric is backsmocked (smocking stitches are worked
on the reverse side of the fabric) before the picture smocking is
worked; this helps to stabilise the pleats and also prevents the
distortion of the finished designs.
CONTINENTAL SMOCKING
Continental smocking describes a form of smocking where a simple
design is smocked to provide a background which is then
embellished with a lot of embroidery. This embroidery usually
consists of flowers made from bullion knots, lazy daisy stitch,
French knots etc. The embroidery is usually worked randomly over
the whole area, and often covers over much of the background
smocking.
Continental smocking usually requires more width of fabric than
English smocking, and it is often less elastic due to the
profusion of embroidery stitches that are worked over the
smocking.
GRID SMOCKING or ITALIAN SHIRRING
This type of smocking is different from other types of smocking
in that pleats form an elaborate symmetrical pattern, and not
straight pleats as with English smocking.
The gathering threads are stitched following a grid pattern, and
are worked in and out of the fabric rather than picking up a
small amount of fabric as in English smocking. The gathering
threads themselves are used to control the fullness of the
pleats, and no further surface stitching is required. This type
of smocking can however be embellished with embroidery.
There is no elasticity in this type of smocking.
The traditional image of smocking has been slow to change, but
its adaptability is now being recognised. As a decorative art
medium, it has great potential for inclusion in embroidery panels
as well as being a method of providing richly decorative texture
for fashion garments. Smocking is a method of manipulating
fabric, it is able to add colour and alter the tonal quality of
fabric, and it can also change the weight of the fabric.
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