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Smocking is the decorative
stitching that is used to control the pleats or gathers of
loose-fitting, traditional blouses called smocks (also known as
chemises or shifts). It is a simple yet very versatile and
decorative form of embroidery.
Smocking began in England in the 13th or 14th century. It
consisted of linen fabric which was gathered into pleats, and
then the pleats were secured with embroidery stitches. These
decorative smocks were very practical outer garments that were
worn by farm workers, mostly men, and children. They were smocked
on the yoke and sleeves, and the stitching indicated the area
from where the smock originated, and the embroidered designs also
depicted the wearers' occupation e.g. farmers would have symbols
of the land, shepherds would have crooks and sheep, while
gravediggers would have crosses. The smocks provided the wearer
with protection and warmth from the cold winter winds while
giving freedom of movement and stretch across the back, chest and
sleeves and therefore not restricting their ability to work.
With mechanisation, the loose garments became impractical and
dangerous to wear near machinery and so the use of the smock
gradually died out. However, as the use of the rural smock faded,
smocking began to appear on woman's and children's clothing and
so the art of smocking was not lost.
Smocking on garments spread to Europe and later to the Americas,
Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.
In the early 20th century, the use of smocking to decorate
garments was both popular and fashionable. The two World wars
brought about many social and economic changes, and the
availability of cheap mass produced adult clothing took over from
the labour-intensive hand-smocked clothing, particularly in
women's clothing. However, smocking did continue as decoration on
children's clothing.
In the 1940s a South African man, Mr Read, invented a smocking
pleater machine and this has truly revolutionised the art of
smocking world-wide. This machine eliminates the need for the
long, laborious method that was previously required of preparing
the pleated fabric required for smocking. Since this time,
several other manufacturers now make similar machines in a
variety of sizes.
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